I’m back in France since last Saturday and will already be on my way back to the States Tuesday. It has been very nice to enjoy my town again, Villefranche sur Mer. Right now everything is very wintery and Christmassy.
I open my door everyday to the nativity scene, and to huge plastic polar bears. I live right in front of a public square in the old town, by the church. My 20sq ft meters studio is situated on the walk way and looks like an old abandoned shop. It has one big window and door/window covered with white grid to avoid accidents when kids are playing ball on the square after school. I like to open the door and sit there on the front step. I like to watch the leaves of the trees move with the wind. There are four big trees around the square and when it’s summer they take heart shapes. In the winter they loose all their leaves and their branches go strait up to the sky has if they wanted to grab the clouds. There is also a fifth tree, which is a pepper tree. This one keeps its leaves all years long. It always smells spicy when you sit underneath it. The church is right there and the bells ring every hour starting from one “dong” to 12 depending on the time of the day. And they do as well once every half an hour. When there is a wedding going on, the bells go crazy jolly before and after the ceremony…and for so long! It is a little too much sometimes, especially in the summer when there is a wedding every other day! They also ring when someone from the town had died. The melody gets slow and creepy. I never go outside in the “rue de l’Eglise” then if I’m in the studio as it is hard to see people crying and men carrying the coffin to the church. Carrying it in, then carrying it out. I also turn my music off if I’m listening to any, I don’t know why but I feel like it is a sign of respect due to the person who passed. I listen to the crying bells in silence, wondering if I knew the person from view or if friends of mine did and are part of the ceremony. In a small village it is always a possibility. When I think of it, it’s a little ironic that I now stay near a funeral home in the states and Scottish bagpipes have replaced the bells… When there is a wedding I also avoid going down the street; it gets crazy busy and you always end up being flashed by a camera or getting ran-in by a kid while you try to find your way out of the crowd! Though I love the flower petals and the hearts shaped paper cuts that remains on the street all day and night after the wedding. You know something special happened there, you know for sure that it was a very happy moment.
In my studio, when the glass door is shut, I can open a part of it, leaving the air in. I always do it even in winter, as it is the only aeration I have. The building was built in 1702 so there are a few inconvenient. It does make it so special though. With that window constantly open, I can hear every single noise in the street. There is a little fountain that is always running and it gives me one of the sweetest feelings. I feel safe and relaxed.
Depending the time of the day, life around the square changes…
Around 6 in the morning, you can hear something scratching the floor and getting closer and closer to my door.
When I first moved in, I got so scared of that noise, I had no idea what it was! Then I realized that it was just a man whose job is to clean the streets before everyone wakes up! Now when I’m awake to hear it, I wonder who that man is and if it is still the same man as 5 years ago when I moved in. You see, I of course close my shades and curtains at night. I always heard the broom but never saw the man. It makes me smile. He has no idea that I’m writing about him right now. He probably thinks that my place is an old empty shop and that no one lives there. It is after all what it looks like from outside! He doesn’t know that the sound of his broom is something someone will miss. At least my place doesn’t attract the curious ones or naughty ones at night. But during the day and mostly in the summer time, when my door is half open, I sometime have a nonchalant tourist that walks in, as if it really was a shop! Or I see their faces glued to my window, hands around their eyes to have a look inside. My next-door neighbors have the same problem. But worst, as their place looks much fancier than mine! Later in the morning, around 9, I can hear the old ladies chatting. They meet right in front of my door, sit on the low little wall that surrounds the square and speak about what is happening and not happening in town. It lasts for about 20 minutes and then they go their separate ways to the vegetable shop or to Lucienne’s little goods shop that sales “rotisserie” chickens every morning. There is never any left after 11! The smell goes up and down the street and you can’t resist! The best chickens, ever. We call it “poulet roti”. Every day she also makes a new “take away” dish that you can re-heat at home and enjoy. She always has the best local specialties. Before and after lunch, the street gets busy as everyone gets on and off work. Lunchtime is a BIG thing in France and people like to eat outside if it’s sunny. Which luckily is 80% of the time in South of France! So I often have ladies chatting and eating their lunch together one of the benches on the square. Others go to the café up the street and enjoy a nice salad or “entrecote-frites”. Then it gets quiet again for a while. Everyone ate and if you are not working, then you are sleeping! The elders do anyway. During summer time, you can hear the lost tourists searching for the galleries and chapels to visit. Then you hear every language there is! If and when I’m sitting outside on my step, you can be sure that someone will ask me the way. I should have opened a tourist agency there… It would work so well! Life continues around the square and you can soon hear the moms going up to the school to pick up their little ones. And I witness a daily meeting and “what’s up and not” again. Half an hour later, around 4.30pm the street and square transforms into the holder of an extremely messy symphony of running stomps and shouts and screams and laughs and bikes and flying balls (often stopped by my well protected window in a big “BANG”)!

Often you also end up hearing “maaamaaaaaaaaaaan” followed by a big sob. Then everyone goes home to their “gouter” which is a little bite to eat, usually something good and sugary, before homework so the kids don’t get too hungry before diner. Soon after that everyone comes back from work and greets each other as they walk up and down the street with a loud voice on their way home:
- “Bonne soiree!”
- “Toi aussi!”
- “A demain!”
- “Ciao a Demain!”
A little after that, when it’s quieter again, you can hear water dripping down in front of my door; it’s the 3rd floor lady that waters her plants. It did fall on my head a few times!
When the evening has arrived, if it’s summer time, the faraway sounds of the main street come to my ears from all the way down the stairs of the village. The restaurants are getting full and there is music in the air. The square takes a nice sunset color full of warm yellows and greens, orange will soon show up and the reds of the berries are magnificent. If it’s wintertime, your ear focuses much more on the bell ringing 7 or 8 times and on the fountain, still running. The square lights up and looks like the perfect romantic meeting spot. Once in a while a homeless person will come and borrow a bench for the night. It always makes me feel a little insecure at first and I can decide to offer them a cookie or two if I’ve seen them on that bench enough times to make sure that I’m won’t be in a sketchy situation. One of them used to often listen to his portable-radio so I’d hear a little music along with the water running. He also would wear woman’s earrings...
At night you sometimes hear cats fighting. I never liked that. One night a cat “begged” me to open my door and let him in, which I did. He stayed a while then left. You also can randomly hear happily drunken people going home or to someone else’s home after the bars are closed! Then again, the broom around 6.
The owner wants to sale my studio. This is the last year I’ll hear all this together. I cannot afford to buy it. I would have loved to. This will always be the place where I knew I was home right away, the first day I slept in. With only a mattress on the floor and the smell of fresh paint on the wall. So much happened there. Creation, romances, afternoon music and “people watching”, outside painting, rare but wonderful parties with drinks and food outside. The all square was my porch! Renovations and humidity problems, ant invasions, even toilet providing during a traditional village ball on the square!
One of the best memories and definitely one of the most surprising ones was an evening when I heard singing outside… like angels singing! I went out to see what was going on that was so magical. As I closed the door behind me, something like a hundred people looked my way! A hundred people with candles in their hands. If I remember correctly, it was for the Christ’s resurrection’s Mass. Someone looked at me again and gave me a sign of invitation while the chorus was still going. Now I’m not religious but I use to go to church once in a while when I was a kid. What I did not understand was that this procession was going to move to the church and well… I was given a candle thinking that this was just something happening on my square and had to follow until the end. Not “had to” but should and did. I couldn’t really give the candle back and say, “thanks for the songs”.

I stayed until the end and it gave me a nice time to think about everything I was thankful for having in my life. I thanked life, not God, and I felt good about it. It was touching to see people so close to one another and so connected. The church was beautiful and I even let a candle to Saint Therese, Saint of lost causes. Like I said, I’m not religious but I’ve always liked the image of female Saints. My mother, who believes and goes to church here and there, taught me and my sister about some of them when we where kids. She told us about these biblical characters that might have existed or not. About this image to follow of truly good hearted people. After Mass, everyone and I went back home and my candle stayed there, slowly burning, lighting Therese’s face looking down at it. Today it represents a lot to me. When I think back, I’m thankful for the randomness of life and for it to have given me one of the most interesting and special places to live at. It certainly is one of the most beautiful ones. Now I have to let it go. And I think that having written this today helps. It is if I can say, a “lost cause” for me but a new one to discover for someone else. Good luck to you, next guardian of the square. Good luck with my dear bells, fountain, unknown broom-man, curious and lost tourists and future surprises. I hope you’ll enjoy it as much as I did.
P.S: I just got home and someone moved the polar bears of the Christmas decoration, making them look like they are conceiving a little one…they were two of them on separate corners of the square and someone thought it would be funny to place the bear standing on his back legs behind the one standing on his four legs… The ladies are going to have quite something to comment about tomorrow!
Happy Holidays.